The Best on the Back: Six Watches with Drop-Dead Gorgeous Movements
We all share a love for a truly great watch, and what counts as “great” is fairly clear in most cases: a clean, legible dial; thoughtful details; comfortable wear; and a reliable, finely made movement. Yet there are times when you crave something more—perhaps a lot more—and these six exquisite mechanical marvels deliver just that. Each piece demonstrates a devotion to craftsmanship that goes beyond ordinary watchmaking, emphasizing extraordinary finishing as well. This opening installment of a two-part Buying Guide lifts the veil on some of this year’s most stunning movements.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’Une Montre 3
Crafted entirely by hand, the Naissance d’Une Montre 3 from Ferdinand Berthoud salutes and protects the art of artisanal watchmaking. Viewed from the front, it captivates with an astonishing three-dimensional, asymmetrical layout. Turned over, the experience shifts to a different form of wonder: a symmetrical cadence, refined finishing, and a tranquil, meticulously detailed presentation. You can glimpse the fusée-and-chain mechanism through partial windows, admire intricate engravings, and notice the delicate shock absorber that supports the balance staff—details that invite endless study. Only ten units will be produced (two watches per year), and the price sits at CHF 850,000.
For an in-depth look at this horological masterpiece, explore our full story and video.
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 stands out not only as a highlight within the Maison’s anniversary lineup but as one of the finest watches of the year, period. Marking 250 years of Breguet, the piece presents a remarkably understated front, featuring a white Grand Feu enamel dial and a single hand. Flip it over, and you’re greeted by multiple stepped bridges, heat-blued screws, polished bevels, and a wealth of textures and finishes. The central ratchet wheel bears Abraham-Louis Breguet’s explanation of the Souscription movement, taken from his original advertising brochure. While not strictly limited, the Classique Souscription 2025 is available at EUR 52,800.
Dive into our hands-on story for more details and impressions.
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R
Patek Philippe and chronographs form a natural partnership, and the 5370 series is among the brand’s finest. This Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R drew significant attention this year for several reasons. Its chocolate-and-cream dial pairs beautifully with a warm rose-gold case, creating a striking aesthetic. The in-house calibre CHR 29-535 PS comprises 312 components, all finished by hand in minute detail. The mechanism’s construction resembles a tiny, intricate cityscape you could spend days admiring. Functionally, it can split the chronograph seconds on demand via the crown pusher. The price is steep, at EUR 286,300.
For a detailed, hands-on look at the 5370R, check out our full story.
David Candaux DC12 MaveriK
As indie watchmaking experiences a renaissance, options for exceptional mechanical movements keep expanding. Among the most impressive is the DC12 MaveriK from David Candaux. It features a double balance wheel arrangement linked by a patented differential that you can see from the front, while the back reveals the two balance wheels in their rhythmic motion. The in-house C30 calibre is built with titanium plates and bridges and finished by hand to an immaculate standard. Production is limited, with a price of CHF 98,000 before tax.
For a comprehensive look at the MaveriK, read our hands-on article.
Petermann Bedat Reference 1825
Petermann Bedat’s new Reference 1825 exemplifies superb movement construction and finish. Following in the footsteps of earlier models, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat deliver a modern take on the classic small-seconds dress watch. While the movement isn’t the most intricate in function, it’s finished to an exceptionally high standard. The centerpiece is an openworked, bell-shaped center bridge in steel. German silver plates and bridges feature broad Geneva stripes, polished jewel sinks, bevelled edges, and black-polished screw heads and balance cock. Only 200 pieces will be made over four years, priced at CHF 75,000.
Our hands-on story covers every nuance of this remarkable piece.
Lang & Heyne Anton Manufakture Edition
The Lang & Heyne Anton Manufacture Edition demonstrates a beautiful fusion of tradition and modern craft. Its Art Deco-inspired case—with scalloped corners, a ribbed caseband, and the distinctive triple-lug design—encases a movement that’s as striking as the exterior. The star of the show is the flying tourbillon escapement in the lower portion of the dial, which peeks out through a black zirconium oxide ceramic surface. On the reverse side, you can observe the arrangement of individual finger bridges supporting the tourbillon and other components, all finished to the highest standard. This is a very limited run of five pieces, priced at EUR 160,000 before VAT.
Learn more about Lang & Heyne in our Anton vs. Georg comparison.
Note: For further insights, see the original feature and related hands-on reviews linked throughout this piece.
Contemplating these six watches reveals a shared devotion to artistry within watchmaking, where every surface, bridge, and screw is treated as part of a larger conversation about craft. Which of these movements resonates most with you, and why? Do you think the emphasis on finishing and artisanal techniques justifies higher prices, or should performance and practicality take precedence? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
